sabato 21 giugno 2014

Old spring memories

A lot of time is past from my last blog, so I decide to write something about my last boulder experiences in Swiss and in some spots close to my home.
The first one was in Magic Wood, where I always like spend days in this special place for me because I love so much this kind of environment and many things there, make me happy. I climbed two days here with my friends Gabri, Marco and my brother, the conditions was really good, it was cold and the fiction was perfect. I was able to climb some great lines like “Muttertag” and “Jack’s broken heart” both 8a in the first day and “Right hand of darkness” 7c+ in the second day but my real project was “Riverbed”.
Muttertag
I spent some hours to figure out my beta and I did good attempts from the bottom but I wasn’t able to climb it so it is still a proj. I hope to come back here this summer to climb again on this great granite rock.
Ten days later Magic Wood I went in new place for me,situated in Aosta Valley called Ussel. It is a small spot but there are some interesting lines. In my opinion the best boulder here is "Amelie", a beautiful 7b+ arete composed by compression moves and hell hooks work, after having cleaned it from the dirt of the winter, I flashed it. The second line I climbed was “The Butterfly Effect” 7c+, I found a new beta, in my opinion more logical and way easier so I think the grade is around 7b+ . After that I found new version of “TBE” that start the same and than  it turn to the right, so I chalked up all the “new” holds and I started to try the moves. After 20 minutes of work I maked the FA and I called it “The Stoners” graded 7c.
In the first days of May my friend Valerio from Rome went to my home to spent one week of climbing with us. He hadn’t never seen the famous spot of bouldering in Ticino called Chironico so we decided to bring Valerio even if the conditions were warm.
We spent the morning in Boogalagga sector where I climbed "Scholonziges Weiner Schmankerl" 7c+ and “Trip to London” 6c+ an amazing high boulder featured by really technical moves on little crimps and slopy feet.  In the afternoon we moved to Nivo Bassa sector where I sent “Arabald” 7b, “The Loneliness of a long distance runner” 7b+/c but my biggest effort of the day was the flash of “Fat Boy” 7c+ a cool problem composed by tricky moves like toe hooks and knee locks. 
Scholonziges Weiner Schmankerl, Boogalagga sector.
In the middle part of May the temperature became warmer but I was still motivated for bouldering, so I decided to visit the coldest spot in Aosta Valley called Champorcher where you can climb  during the summer with fresh conditions. In the low sector I did the hardest 7b ever called “Cochese Night” and also a scary highball called “ Santa Monica Boulevard” 7a.
In the other two days that I spent here I had the pleasure to visit a new sector in the high part of the bouldering area where Niccolò Ceria and some friends discovered new cool lines. I climbed  “Rubik” 7c, “Paradise Lost 7b+”, “Q*bert” 7c and “Under the carpet” 7c/c+ 
Now it’s time to take the rope for some sport climbing, I’m trying "Lucky man" 8c  in Gressoney and I’m really psyched to come back on the proj but before I have to focused on plastic train for the last World Cup boulder in Laval(FRA) at the end of June and for the next Italian bouldering competitions in July and August.                                                                          

One week in Frankenjura



The Frankenjura was in mind for a long period, I had the desire to be in contact with this environment and this style of climbing but I never  had the opportunity to visit it. One evening Gabri Moroni sent me a message and he asked to my brother and I if we are interested to spend one week in Frankenjura. We were super sycked and motivated to leave again from the boring routine days, so we accepted the Gabri’s request so Gabri, Marco, Ema and me prepared the stuffs and we left for the Germany.
After six hour of car we were in Frankenjura, the sun was shining but we still not too tired so we decided to climb some routes to test the new kind of rock. We opted for Eldorado sector because it is very close to the flat that we rent. This crag is featured by a small steep wall just above a playground area. “No more babysitting for neurotic girl today”  was our first route because it was the easiest one; then we move without fear on “Nightmare” a famous  8b composed by only 9 moves on pockets.
In the firts go I menaged to climb all the single moves but I felt a bit tired from the long trip but I wanted just climbing without any expectations. On  my sencond go I did a mistake at the very top of the route I felt a bit weak and tired but I wanted to get another try. At 3rd go everything went very well and I managed to send the route. I realised that the trip was starting in the best way so I was incredibly sycked for the next days
 
Nightmare, Eldorado sector.
The next day we checked Bärenschlucht sector, that is good place close to a big camping where a lot of families spent many days  to stay in contact with nature and to practice many activities like: cycling, hiking but grilling meat is the most important thing that they do.
 We climbed two 7a for warming up and then Ema, Marco and I looked the guidebook to find a project for the day. "Subway" 8b was the one
This route seems to be a sea wave so it is really steep but it is short like many routes in Franken. it is s composed by a fantastic  double dyno, from a mono for the RH and a good shoulder crimp for the LH, to a jug and then follow  powerful moves on pockets and little crimps. On my  first tries I had difficulties to find the right way to get the dyno and some moves in the middle part. The weather was also not so good because just before my last try the rain come. I started really focused and finally I did weird  dyno and I continued to climb all the route until the rest-jug few meters below the chain. I shaked my forearm and with the rain that fell on my face I clipped the chain.
The third day the weather was really bad but we were so sycked to climb in all kind of conditions so we checked Hoelzgauer sector. Our warm up was very fast but we climbed good lines like Ostwand 7a+ and another 6 grade route.
The first route that Gabri racommended to me to climb was "Casablanca" 8a+, a steep roof with physical moves; I felt some moves harder then they are because I was not enough warmed for this kind of tension moves and because this type of climbing doesn’t siut my style very well. On my second attempt I sent it without  any mistake.  The day was still long so I decided to try Ema’s proj called “Blowjob" 8a+ but it is completely different from the first one. This route is almost vertical with  a cool boulder at the first two quickdraws where you have to stick a small one finger pocket and get into a small li pfor the RH. The second part was mostly like endurance and technical climbing on little crimps and tiny pockets. I was able to complete also this route on my second go finishing the day as well as it started.
 
Casablanca, Hoelzgauer sector.
The rain didn’t seem to quite and the painful of the fingers rised so we took a rest day in order to be ready and well rested when the weather would become better.
The 5th day we woke up hopeful for good condition but the rain continued to hit the forest, so we moved to Zwergenschloss sector, a quite big cave where you can climb when it rain. I tried “Linie 1” an amazing 8b/b+, probably one of the best routes I tried in this trip but I wasn’t in a good shape and the conditions didn’t help me so I wasn’t able to climb it, in my best attempt I fell in the last move of the hard section grabbing a good crimp, I was really disappointed because I had the desire to climb that line.
The sixth day we came back in Bärenschlucht sector because my brother wanted to try Subway again, so I decided to try a route called “Queeel Dich, Du Sau” situated in front of Bärenschlucht sector, precisely in the Erinnerungswand sector. This route is graded 8b/b+ and it’s way longer than I was used to find there. It is a bouldery route anyway, composed by two parts; the first one is characterized by a long bouldery sections on little crimps and pockets than allow to join a perfect no hands rest. The final section consists in a short boulder on small pockets with slopy feet-holds with few pumpy moves on slopers to reach the top of the route. In my first go I felt it hard but I was able to climb all the moves so I was so sycked for the second go. I put up my shoes I started for the second go, my hands was a bit cold so I climbed all the first part with some problems but with a big fight I get the rest point anyway, I relaxed till I felt ready for climbing again. Everything went very well, I got the last boulder and with some screams and with a forearm super pumped I clipped the chain.
I was really surprised an unbelievable about what I was able to climb probably one of my biggest effort. 
The seventh day we went to Maximilianwand sector, probably one of my favourite sector of the trip, composed by a big number of cliffs surrounded by an amazing forest so was increadible stay in conctact with that place. The first two routes that I climbed was "Free Will" 7a+ and "Amazonenpfeiler" 7b  bolted by Wolfgang Gullich in the 1981. Marco and I tried maybe our short route ever, an 8a+ called “Bad brain” featured by a one move only to grab quite good pocket with the RH but Marco found a different beta, he used a heel hooking with the RF in order to stay higher and to reach the pocket more static. I tried it with his beta and I almost flashed it, I reached the pocket but the heel hook slipped off so I wasn’t able to get the swing. The second go was the replay of the firts one but in the third go I grabbed the pockets and I climbed all the route.
Free Will, Maximilianwand sector.
The last day we checked Rotestein sector where there is The Essential 9a, one of the hardest route that inspired me more. I felt really tired and with a bad skin but I was super motivated anyway so I tried “Die Kante” 8a+ that follow a perfect technical arete composed by crimps, pockets and pinches. In the first two attempts I was disappointed because I wasn’t able to find my beta so I felt it really hard. In my third go I climbed all the moves really well and I crusched it. I was super sycked to have climbed this gem but I was sad at the same time because I knew that this route was the last one of the trip.
When I left the Germany I thought back to all of the good moments I spent with my friends in this magic forest and the fantastic lines I tried and climbed made me smile again.

martedì 22 aprile 2014

Italian Cup in Rome



The first bouldering Italian Cup took place in April the 16th in Rome.
My brother and I went to Rome the day before the competition to meet Valerio, our good friend that live in the capital, because he was so available to offer us to sleep in his home. He also was an excellent tour guide because he lead us around the historical monuments that make this city fantastic.
The next day, we woke up at 7:30 am because Valerio and Marco had to compete at 10.00 am for the qualifications round while I had to wait till the afternoon to compete because I was already qualified for the semifinals, it seemed  that the time would never pass so I was bored and stressed to wait the semis. At 14.30 pm the isolation zone finally closed so 25 athletes were ready to fight to get a place in the finals.
Third boulder of the final round

Finally my time arrived, I felt myself focused on the matters and ready to climb.There were 4 boulder problems in the semis on different styles of climbing; the first one consisted on really tension moves on pinches, I had some difficulties to reach the bonus hold. The second one was a technical boulder on slopy holds but I was able to flash it, so I got some important minutes to relax a bit my body  and mind before to passed at the problem number 3. The third one was not so hard and pretty much my style of climbing because it was composed of a dyno at the start followed to two small crimps to reach the Top. I flashed this one too. The fourth was probably the hardest and the strangest problem of the semi, just Gabri was able to get the Top and few people was able to grab the bonus hold.
I was happy for my effort but I wasn’t sure to be  in the final, so I waited the charts. When the judge published it I saw that I was in the final in the 5th positions with another athlete.
At 18:00 pm  the isolations zone closed so I took my stuffs and I reached it with the other athletes, we were six males in total: 1) Gabriele Moroni 2) Stephan Scarperi 3) Marcello Bombardi 4) Marco Gozzi and in 5th positions Michael Piccolruaz and me.
I was the first athlete to compete, so after having checked the 4 boulder problems I put my shoes to start my final round. The first one was a slab, the second one a big dyno, the third one was a great boulder with only volumes piramid shaped and the last one was a overhang wall with little crimps and with a dyno to the Top.
Fourth boulder of the final round

In the first one I was completely unable to start so I took zero points, the second one was the dyno but I wasn’t able to get the swing and reach the bonus hold, zero point also on this one! The third one was like the first one completely a disaster so I was disappointed for my bad performance on the first three boulders but I knew that the competition ended at the last boulder so I focused on the 4th problem. I climbed really motivated because the 4th was completely  my style of climbing, I reached the bonus hold very well with no feet moves, so I got the last two volumes and I maked the dyno and I grabbed the Top, I screamed for the joy because I was happy to back in the game with my mind and I knew that just Gabri and Stephan had surely more points than me so I had some possibilities to get the podium.
Just Stephan and me were able to climbed the last boulder in the first try and I realised that I was surely on the 3rd step of the podium! What a joy and what a crazy moment! With this competition I understand that you have to stay focused until the last boulder because everything can happend.
Cograts to all the athletes that competed in this competitions and to the boulder setters for the great problems!
Now I have to back on training because thanks to this performance I can take part on my first Boulder World Cup in Grindelwald(SUI) in May, I CAN’T BELIEVE IT!
The Podium

giovedì 3 aprile 2014

Three in a day


Last Saturday Luca Bazooka, Marco and I went to Brione to spent one of the last bouldering days before the hot season.
The conditions were quite good in the shadow, especially near the river where a faint wind blowing making the fiction really great.
After the warm up we  went to try “Forever more” a powerful 8a composed  by just two hard moves (The first two moves) and then a delicate reestablishment before the scary top out where you can’t make mistakes.
Unfortunately I wasn't strong enough to climb the hard moves, so after 20 mins we decided to change line. We moved to the classic river stone where there are Frogger, Fake Pamplemousse etc,because Marco and I wanted to try “Frogger” and “Fake Pamplemousse”.
Fake Pamplemousse  Pic.Marco Zanone

We started to try “Fake”graded 8a and after 15 mins I re-climbed all the single moves so I taked a bit of rest while Marco tried the last move to get the sloper just before the jug(Top).  When Marco finished his tries I did a good try but I fell with the sloper in my left hand because I didn’t stay enough solid with my body to get the swing, the next try was the right one, I get the swing and finally I grab the Top. After this funny line we moved to another line graded 8a and called Frogger a tricky boulder composed by a fantastic little pinch and good pockets on an awesome orange rock.

Frogger Pic Marco Zanone


I remember that when I try it the previous times I had some difficulties on the last two moves when you have a crimp-pinch with the LH and a good vertical pocket with the RH to get a the last pocket with the right hand just before the final jug. So I try that moves and finally I found my beta that consist in a toe hook with the left foot in a good pocket in the middle of the boulder to crimp in the best way the sharp hold and to complete the last two moves.

Frogger  Pic. Marco Zanone
After having configured out all moves I sent Frogger in my first go from the bottom and I was really satisfied to have climb it because It is in my opinion one of the coolest rock feature I've ever seen.

 Also Marco and Luca were able to send Frogger so we leave all togheter with a big smile and motivated for the last boulder of the day “Limited Edition”
This boulder is situated in a privat area in fact in the morning the owner of the field told us that if we wanted to try it we shouldn’t be too many people in order not to make much noise.
We taked our stuffs and we reach the boulder, in the first time that I saw it I said WOW! No others words came out from my mouth.
So we opened our pads and we started to try it. Marco did a great flash attempt falling to grab the first sloper before the weird mantle. On my first attempt I had some difficuties to stick the good vertical rail reachable with a fanstastic “ninja move”!  
The mantle siut me really well in fact I climbed it in the first try, I relaxed a bit and then I tried it again. I was able to do the dyno to the right rail so I understood that I had some possibilities to solved it,in fact with a bit of fear I climbed the mantle and I found myself at the Top of this icredible 7c+.


Special Edition Pic. Marco Zanone
The skin was finished and all the muscles of my body were weak so I decided to “call it  a day” and came back to home.
Now it’s time to take part in some competitions and after come back in other projects on rock, I’m Sycked! 


Special edition ~ Brione from Marco Zanone on Vimeo.