venerdì 28 febbraio 2014

Good days spent in Swiss

The Ticino season started seriously, my brother and I went to Cresciano and to Chironico to try some ticklist projects.
In Cresciano we went to try the Dagger , it is an amazing and hard roof composed of super aesthetic and difficult compression moves with crazy toe hooks but it didn’t siut me  from the first attempt but  I was motivated to try it the same.
The first day of trying I climbed the middle part quite well but I felt it a bit hard for my standars, the first part caused me some problems, in fact I didn’t grab the big step that allow to get into the middle part.
The second day, three weeks later , I tried it again  I felt it a bit better then the first day and I was able to do the  first part and I did good links on the second one. After one hour session  was really pumped and destroyed from the physical moves but I was really happy anyway because I enjoyed this great famous line that one day could become a serious project! 
In Cresciano I climbed also an awesome line called Jungle book from the stand start 7c+ and 8a from the bottom.  It was a pleasure climbed on it because it’s such a cool line composed by slopers and a weird hell hook.
Jungle Book  Ph. Marco Zanone

The other days I went to Chironico with 3 friends of mine in Paese sector, we warmed up in the classic stone of Souvenir, the Aviator etc. I climbed the Aviator and Los cursos and when I felt ok I start to try Souvenir. I immediately felt it climbable, I did all the single moves really quickly, I relaxed a bit and then I did the first go from the bottom but I fell to reach the undercling for the left hand, I tried the mantle and I rested bit again. When I felt ok I got another try and I finally hold the undercling, I taked the sloper with right hand and with a good lolot I grab the weird pinch with my thumb on the pocket, I taked the final jug and I was on the top of the boulder! I was happy because everytime I went to try it, this boulder didn’t siut me really well, but this time I had the right strenght to complete all the moves.
After I tried Blochx Addiction, another 8a in the same block. I think it is a bit harder than Souvenir composed of a difficult shoulder move and an hard swing to hold the last good undercling before to get into the end of the Aviator. It took me some tries to styck the shoulder crimp and on my best try I was able to hold the swing quite well, I took the good undercling, but I felt pretty tired so I fall down with the Aviator’s jug in front of my eyes, I was dissapointed but the day was still long.
From the warm up boulder we moved toThe Pocket problem because Stewe wanted to try it so in the meantime my brother went to Boogalagga, but the two slopy pockets were wet sowe decided to changed our project. We moved to Freak Brothers!
Freak Brothers  Ph. Marco Zanone

I decided to try to flash it, but I knew that I had few possibilities of success but I was focused the same  so I put my shoes and I started! I arrived to the crimps, I matched it, and I pull up to get the edge but the right hand slipped off, what a pity! The next tries I wasn’t able to grab the final edge and I felt it much harder then the flash attempt. I relaxed a bit and  I froze my fingers with the snow so I start for a new try, I get the left crimp really well, I matched it and finally I reach the good edge before the mantle, I stayed relax and I did the exit well, what a joy, I was so happy, one of my “dreams” of Chironico was done, YES SIR! 
Freak Brothers  Ph. Marco Zanone

Then I come back to Blochx Addiction but I was too tired to get the swing again ,so, I came back to home with a great smile and no skin on my fingers.
Three days later, Matteo, my brother and I came back to Chironico and we went to Centrale sector, we warmp up and then we moved to 101 sector to try Delusion of Grandeur 8a+. The endurance part suited me quite well, this part consist in weird climbing on a slopy edge where you can reach the final  scary top out with a small undercling and  with a right foot really high. I had some  difficulties to do the first part, where you have to do a dynamic move to a good pinch from a small undercling with the left hand and small crimp with the right one that allowed to enter in the middle part.
After having figure out all the moves I started to try it from the bottom. I climbed all the first part and I  basically arrived at the end of the endurance part, I grab the slopy jug just before the scary top out but my right foot slipped off. it was really unexpected and I fell down, I was so disapointed because I had good possibilities to climbed it. The next try was the same but this time was the right hand that slipped off, I was really incredulous and quite frustrated in fact I decided to change boulder.
We moved to Tricky a funny 8a boulder close to Delusion, I felt tired and pumped after that two tries on the 8a+ so I ate something and I relaxed a bit. After 20 min of rest I decided to “back in the game” and with some explanation of my brother for the right beta I flashed it, It was a great fight because I felt tired and my fingers were frozen. I think that this boulder is not 8a for sure, but I know that is difficult to say something about the grade in the flash attempt, so in my opinion 7c is appropriated. 
Tricky  Ph Marco Zanone

An exhausting hiking was waiting for us, because from 101 sector we had to come back to Centrale sector because I wanted to destroyed myself on the last boulder of the day, and I chose Le vent nous portera 7c+, not the best line in this sector but the holds are not sharp, in fact it was good.
After some tries to figure out all the moves I started to do some good attempts on it. Two times I felt to reach the small crimp with te right hand just before the dyno to the jug and one time I felt to grab the jug. I felt really destroyed but I was motivated to climb it. I decided to make the last try of the day so I froze  my hands with the snow again, I put liquid chalk and I started. I taked all the holds in the right way and finally I did the  dyno to the jug! Yesss, Finally.This line was done too and I finished the day in the best way. It was surely the unexpected ascent so I was really satisfied.
I hope to came back as soon as possible to finish my “ battle” with Delusion of Grandeur and to have the pleasure to climb other awesome lines.

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