martedì 22 aprile 2014

Italian Cup in Rome

The first bouldering Italian Cup took place in April the 16th in Rome.
My brother and I went to Rome the day before the competition to meet Valerio, our good friend that live in the capital, because he was so available to offer us to sleep in his home. He also was an excellent tour guide because he lead us around the historical monuments that make this city fantastic.
The next day, we woke up at 7:30 am because Valerio and Marco had to compete at 10.00 am for the qualifications round while I had to wait till the afternoon to compete because I was already qualified for the semifinals, it seemed  that the time would never pass so I was bored and stressed to wait the semis. At 14.30 pm the isolation zone finally closed so 25 athletes were ready to fight to get a place in the finals.
Third boulder of the final round

Finally my time arrived, I felt myself focused on the matters and ready to climb.There were 4 boulder problems in the semis on different styles of climbing; the first one consisted on really tension moves on pinches, I had some difficulties to reach the bonus hold. The second one was a technical boulder on slopy holds but I was able to flash it, so I got some important minutes to relax a bit my body  and mind before to passed at the problem number 3. The third one was not so hard and pretty much my style of climbing because it was composed of a dyno at the start followed to two small crimps to reach the Top. I flashed this one too. The fourth was probably the hardest and the strangest problem of the semi, just Gabri was able to get the Top and few people was able to grab the bonus hold.
I was happy for my effort but I wasn’t sure to be  in the final, so I waited the charts. When the judge published it I saw that I was in the final in the 5th positions with another athlete.
At 18:00 pm  the isolations zone closed so I took my stuffs and I reached it with the other athletes, we were six males in total: 1) Gabriele Moroni 2) Stephan Scarperi 3) Marcello Bombardi 4) Marco Gozzi and in 5th positions Michael Piccolruaz and me.
I was the first athlete to compete, so after having checked the 4 boulder problems I put my shoes to start my final round. The first one was a slab, the second one a big dyno, the third one was a great boulder with only volumes piramid shaped and the last one was a overhang wall with little crimps and with a dyno to the Top.
Fourth boulder of the final round

In the first one I was completely unable to start so I took zero points, the second one was the dyno but I wasn’t able to get the swing and reach the bonus hold, zero point also on this one! The third one was like the first one completely a disaster so I was disappointed for my bad performance on the first three boulders but I knew that the competition ended at the last boulder so I focused on the 4th problem. I climbed really motivated because the 4th was completely  my style of climbing, I reached the bonus hold very well with no feet moves, so I got the last two volumes and I maked the dyno and I grabbed the Top, I screamed for the joy because I was happy to back in the game with my mind and I knew that just Gabri and Stephan had surely more points than me so I had some possibilities to get the podium.
Just Stephan and me were able to climbed the last boulder in the first try and I realised that I was surely on the 3rd step of the podium! What a joy and what a crazy moment! With this competition I understand that you have to stay focused until the last boulder because everything can happend.
Cograts to all the athletes that competed in this competitions and to the boulder setters for the great problems!
Now I have to back on training because thanks to this performance I can take part on my first Boulder World Cup in Grindelwald(SUI) in May, I CAN’T BELIEVE IT!
The Podium

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