sabato 21 giugno 2014

Old spring memories

A lot of time is past from my last blog, so I decide to write something about my last boulder experiences in Swiss and in some spots close to my home.
The first one was in Magic Wood, where I always like spend days in this special place for me because I love so much this kind of environment and many things there, make me happy. I climbed two days here with my friends Gabri, Marco and my brother, the conditions was really good, it was cold and the fiction was perfect. I was able to climb some great lines like “Muttertag” and “Jack’s broken heart” both 8a in the first day and “Right hand of darkness” 7c+ in the second day but my real project was “Riverbed”.
I spent some hours to figure out my beta and I did good attempts from the bottom but I wasn’t able to climb it so it is still a proj. I hope to come back here this summer to climb again on this great granite rock.
Ten days later Magic Wood I went in new place for me,situated in Aosta Valley called Ussel. It is a small spot but there are some interesting lines. In my opinion the best boulder here is "Amelie", a beautiful 7b+ arete composed by compression moves and hell hooks work, after having cleaned it from the dirt of the winter, I flashed it. The second line I climbed was “The Butterfly Effect” 7c+, I found a new beta, in my opinion more logical and way easier so I think the grade is around 7b+ . After that I found new version of “TBE” that start the same and than  it turn to the right, so I chalked up all the “new” holds and I started to try the moves. After 20 minutes of work I maked the FA and I called it “The Stoners” graded 7c.
In the first days of May my friend Valerio from Rome went to my home to spent one week of climbing with us. He hadn’t never seen the famous spot of bouldering in Ticino called Chironico so we decided to bring Valerio even if the conditions were warm.
We spent the morning in Boogalagga sector where I climbed "Scholonziges Weiner Schmankerl" 7c+ and “Trip to London” 6c+ an amazing high boulder featured by really technical moves on little crimps and slopy feet.  In the afternoon we moved to Nivo Bassa sector where I sent “Arabald” 7b, “The Loneliness of a long distance runner” 7b+/c but my biggest effort of the day was the flash of “Fat Boy” 7c+ a cool problem composed by tricky moves like toe hooks and knee locks. 
Scholonziges Weiner Schmankerl, Boogalagga sector.
In the middle part of May the temperature became warmer but I was still motivated for bouldering, so I decided to visit the coldest spot in Aosta Valley called Champorcher where you can climb  during the summer with fresh conditions. In the low sector I did the hardest 7b ever called “Cochese Night” and also a scary highball called “ Santa Monica Boulevard” 7a.
In the other two days that I spent here I had the pleasure to visit a new sector in the high part of the bouldering area where Niccolò Ceria and some friends discovered new cool lines. I climbed  “Rubik” 7c, “Paradise Lost 7b+”, “Q*bert” 7c and “Under the carpet” 7c/c+ 
Now it’s time to take the rope for some sport climbing, I’m trying "Lucky man" 8c  in Gressoney and I’m really psyched to come back on the proj but before I have to focused on plastic train for the last World Cup boulder in Laval(FRA) at the end of June and for the next Italian bouldering competitions in July and August.                                                                          

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